WNY Home Cleaning Services
HOME CLEANING TIPS!!!
Need
some professional cleaning tips for small jobs around the house? These
professional cleaning methods will help you to keep a clean and tidy home!!
If you don't have the time to do it yourself, give yourself one less thing to worry about and one more thing to enjoy
and call WNY Home Cleaning Services at 716-816-9091.
To receive a
cleaning estimate - CLICK HERE
Call us at WNY Home Cleaning for professional cleaning services in the
Western NY area that we guarantee you will be completely satisfied with.
For more information, call us at 716-816-9091.
If you are selling your house and want to make it shine, nothing
does the job like a good professional cleaning! We work
with many realtors on their home listings that they want to
look spotless! If you are a realtor - we will make the
house you are trying to sell SHINE!
CLICK HERE FOR OUR TYPICAL CLEANING CHECKLIST
A FEW OF OUR EXPERT TIPS FOR FACING DIRTY JOBS ALONE!!
Take advantage of our more than 10 years of experience cleaning
homes. Here are a few of our favorite house cleaning tips to
easily keep your home fresh and clean.
Stain Removal:
In addition to cleaning wood floors, Murphy Oil Soap makes a
great laundry pre-spotter, especially on organic stains like
grass or blood. Wet washable, colorfast fabric, add a drop of
Murphy directly to the stain, squish through the fabric and wash
as usual. Visit www.murphyoilsoap.com for more cleaning tips.
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Ceramic tile floors
No need to wax.. Just sweep and mop on a regular basis and they
stay clean and shiny. Mop floors with clear water or just a dash
of liquid dish soap. Be sure to change the water when it gets
cloudy. Too much soap or dirty water will make floors dull or
sticky. Don't use scrub pads on ceramic tile floors or you might
scratch them. Our professional cleaners wash most floors by
hand, cleaning and drying a small area at a time.
Grout
Old grout may need cleaning with a wax stripper or heavy-duty
cleaner plus a grout brush. Use a bleaching cleanser on tough
spots. Once the grout is as clean as you can get it, rinse it
well. When it's thoroughly dry, apply a coat of masonry sealer
so that it doesn't absorb dirt in the future.
For mildewed grout in tubs or showers, use a grout brush with a
1:5 solution of chlorine bleach and water. Never use bleach in
combination with any ammonia-based product and be sure the area
is well-ventilated. When you've finished cleaning, rinse the
area well to remove all traces of bleach.
Clean colored grout with a heavy-duty cleaner and a grout brush,
but don't use bleach because this may remove the color from the
grout. Be sure never to use a bleaching solution on colored
grout. A masonry sealer can be applied to clean, colored grout
to ward off future stains.
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Hard water spots
Hard-water deposits are alkaline, so an acid-based cleaner is
the best way to clean them. Phosphoric acid works well and is
safe for most surfaces. Grocery store cleansers with phosphoric
acid contain 4 percent to 6 percent acid. You can purchase lime
scale removers at janitorial supply stores that contain 8
percent to 12 percent acid to get the job done faster. A higher
concentration of acid is safe on most household surfaces as long
as you rinse the surface to remove all traces of the acid after
the cleaning is complete. Let the acid sit for a few minutes
after you apply it to let it work. Tough hard-water deposits may
take more than one application. Scrub the applied areas with a
white, nylon-backed scrub sponge. Make sure you read any
manufacturer's warnings before applying phosphoric acid
solutions to surfaces in your home.
Mini-blinds
Wipe down mini-blinds with a damp fabric softener sheet. This
eliminates the static that causes dust to stick. The same trick
works for TV and monitor screens.
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No-wax/linoleum floors
Regular vacuuming or sweeping is the best way to maintain the
finish. Then damp mop with plain water or add just a drop of
liquid dish soap. If the floor has some tough spots to clean,
use a white, nylon-backed scrub sponge. This will keep soil from
wearing away the surface. However, if time and traffic
eventually dull the glossy layer, you may want to add a
floor finish or wax to restore the shine. Choose any good
commercial floor polish or try a self-polishing, metal-interlock
floor finish available from a janitorial supply. Traffic areas
may need finish applied more often than the rest of the floor.
It's a good idea to keep doormats at all the entrances to your
home, as they will catch much of the dirt that could eventually
damage your floors.
Painted wall cleaning
The type and quality of the paint greatly affects how you clean
a wall and how easily dirt comes off. Generally, there are four
types of paint finishes: Baked enamel (most appliance finishes),
epoxy enamel and automotive paints.
These paints are durable and stain-resistant. Dirt typically
cannot penetrate the hard finish. These surfaces can withstand
scouring with mild abrasives, and can also handle heavy-duty
cleaners and degreasers. With these finishes, be most careful of
scratching or dulling the finish by using harsh abrasives, steel
wool, colored scrub pads and strong solvents.
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General-purpose enamels
Most often found on interior walls, especially kitchen and
bathroom walls, this surface is stain-resistant and can handle
moderate scrubbing. Do not use abrasive substances or colored
scrub pads, which can scratch the finish. Use a neutral cleaning
solution and a white, nylon-backed scrub sponge. Only use
heavy-duty cleaners or abrasive cleansers when you're willing to
take your chances on ruining the paint. If you have latex enamel
paints, avoid leaving them wet for more than a minute or so.
Oil-based enamels are more water-resistant. Keep in mind that
gloss enamels are the most durable and washable, followed by
semi-glosses and then satin finishes.
Latex flat
The most common household paint, flat latex is not as washable
as enamels. Heavy-duty cleaners or hard scrubbing can remove the
paint along with any dirt. Use mild detergents and gentle
scrubbing, and don't let any solution sit on the surface for
more than a minute.
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Exterior paints
These paints are typically oil-based or latex and should be
scrubbed only with a mild detergent and then rinsed with a hose.
Use a long-handled brush for hard-to-reach areas or stubborn
spots. Some people like to use pressure washers on the outside
of their homes, but like harsh chemicals, these can loosen the
paint, so use with caution.
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Pet hair removal from upholstery and carpets
To remove pet hair from fabric or upholstery, try a pet rake (a
brush with crimped nylon bristles), velour brush, tape roller or
even tape wrapped around your hand. Use light, even strokes to
remove the hair. Another option is to try the rubber bottom on a
clean tennis shoe or a slightly dampened sponge (as long as the
dampness won't harm the upholstery).
To remove pet hair from carpet, use a vacuum with a good beater
brush or brush roll. Plain vacuums don't generate enough lift to
remove all the pet hair from the floor.
Another option for both upholstery and carpets - especially at
the edges where pet hair tends to collect and vacuums have a
hard time reaching - is a "pet sponge." These sponges, which are
used dry, are available at pet supply stores.
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Pet stain removal from carpets
First, blot up any liquid by putting towels or absorbent rags
over the spot and stepping on them. Start with gentle pressure
and increase it up to putting your full weight down. Change to
fresh rags or towels, until no more liquid comes up.
For fresh stains, apply a bacteria/enzyme digester from a pet
store, following the directions - it's the only way to deal
effectively with both the stain and the odor. Bacteria/enzyme
digesters work slowly, so leave the solution on as long as the
directions say. Urine has probably penetrated into the carpet
and pad, so use enough solution to reach as far down as the
stain. Apply the solution, put plastic over it, and step on the
spot several times until the area is well saturated. Then, leave
the plastic on the whole time the digester is working to make
sure the spot doesn't dry out.
Old or dry stains are hard - sometimes even impossible - to
remove, but try the bacteria/enzyme digester. If it's a popular
accident site, the bacteria may produce enough ammonia in the
course of breaking down the stains to create a super-alkaline
situation that interferes with its own action. In this case, you
may need to neutralize the spot after the digester has been
working for about four hours. Mix a solution of one cup of
vinegar to a gallon of warm water. Rinse the area with this
solution and apply a fresh batch of bacteria/enzyme solution.
If the stain or odor remains, call a professional deodorizing
specialist. A complete cure will probably involve cleaning the
entire carpet by extraction and replacing the pad underneath, if
not replacing the carpet.
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Soap scum in tubs and showers
Since preventing soap scum build-up is a lot easier than
cleaning it, squeegee water off shower walls and doors after
every use or wipe them down with a towel. For tile walls or
frosted shower doors, apply a light coating of lemon oil
periodically to help prevent build-up. For a porcelain tub,
apply a light coat of boat or car wax to the sides (never the
bottom) of the tub.
If it's too late for prevention, use a degreasing agent and lots
of elbow grease. Get a good alkaline soap scum remover at a
janitorial supply store or dissolve a handful of automatic
dishwasher detergent in a bucket of warm water. Cover the
affected area completely and let your cleaning solution soak for
at least 15 minutes. Do it right after a shower when the walls
will be wet. After soaking, use a stiff scrub brush or a white,
nylon-backed scrub sponge to clean the walls. You may need to
soak and scrub a couple of times to get rid of all the build-up.
Then rinse well with clear water.
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Toilet bowl ring removal
The earlier you attack this problem, the easier it will be to
remove the ring. A thorough cleaning with a commercial
acid-based bowl cleaner may do the trick. If the bowl cleaner
doesn't work, try using a green, nylon-backed scrub sponge along
with the acid. For an old ring, use a pumice stone. Wet the
stone with the water in the bowl and rub it on the ringKeep the
stone wet the entire time you're scrubbing. Pumice stones should
only be used on vitreous china toilets - never on colored,
enamel or plastic fixtures. Once you've gotten rid of a ring,
weekly cleanings should keep it from coming back.
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Wood floors
Vacuum and dust mop regularly to prevent dirt from building up
and damaging the surface. Any wood floor can be cleaned with a
quarter-cup of apple cider vinegar mixed with a gallon of warm
water. Wood floors are best cleaned on your hands and knees
because you should only clean a small area at a time and then
dry it and move on. Never get wood floors too wet or allow them
to dry naturally. Finished wood floors often can be cleaned just
with water. However, the finish will eventually wear off, and
you'll either have to re-finish the floors or start waxing them.
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Spill clean-up from carpet and upholstery
WNY Home Cleaning does not provide carpet or upholstery cleaning, so
we suggest that you contact our affiliate, ServiceMaster Clean,
which provides carpet, drapery and upholstery cleaning, as well
as fire and flood cleanup. You can visit the ServiceMaster web
site and ask their experts.
Repairing damaged wood furniture
WNY Home Cleaning routinely dusts and applies lemon oil to wood
furniture. We suggest you visit our affiliate, Furniture Medic,
a furniture repair and restoration company. If you have
questions about furniture restoration or repair, please feel
free to visit the Furniture Medic web site for expert advice.
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Stain removal from clothes
WNY Home Cleaning doesn't provide laundry service, so we can't
expertly address stains you find on fabrics. However, we can
suggest a web site that may be able to help you. The site is
sponsored by Tide, and can be found at:
Stain Removal: Tide Stain Solutions
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Candle wax removal from upholstery, wood or carpet
To remove the wax from carpet or upholstery, you will need a
plain brown paper bag and a steam iron. Paper grocery bags work
well.
1. Cut open the brown paper bag so it lays flat.
2. Lay the brown paper bag on the affected carpet., with any
printing away from the carpet.
3. Set the steam iron on a moderate setting and plug it in.
Allow it to warm up.
4. Once warmed up, place the steam iron on of the brown
paper bag over the wax spot. Move the iron back and forth over
the wax spot. The iron should never come in direct contact with
the carpet, only the paper bag. As the wax warms up it will
begin to absorb into the paper bag.
5. When a dark spot appears on the bag, move a dry area of the
bag over the wax spot and continue to move the steam iron over
the area.
6. When no further wax absorbs into the bag, you have removed
the wax.
To remove candle wax from wood, apply a plastic bag filled with
ice to the spot, until the wax is brittle enough to crumble off.
If some candle wax remains, place an ink blotter on the area and
apply a hot pressing iron to the top of the blotter.
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Pergo floors
The manufacturers of Pergo recommend damp mopping at least once
a week and sweeping or vacuuming with an attachment more often
if you are concerned about scratches.
Do not use soaps or detergents because they may leave a film,
dulling the floor. Difficult spots like nail polish, markers,
tar and cigarette burns can be removed with acetone or nail
polish remover. Pergo floors must never be waxed, polished,
sanded or refinished.
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Marble and granite floors
If polished marble or granite is protected with floor finish,
the finish must be buffed or burnished and periodically replaced
to keep the surface protected and looking good.
Because marble and granite are sensitive and porous, they need
to be cleaned with a neutral cleaner solution and then polished
dry. Scratched and dull surfaces can be revived with a marble
restorer (available from janitorial supply stores).
Cultured marble and certain types of granite are stronger than
real marble and stone, but they do lose their luster after being
cleaned for years. Clean with a spray bottle filled with
all-purpose or disinfectant cleaner and a soft cloth. Always
keep the area wet while working. Never use powdered cleansers,
steel wool, metal scrapers or colored scrub pads on cultured
marble or granite. If the surface is worn and looks dull even
after cleaning, polishing compound may bring back the glow. A
little appliance wax, car wax or silicone sealer will also help
fill fine scratches and restore the shine.
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Kitchen cabinets
Most cabinets are factory manufactured and finished, and even
wood cabinets have enough varnish or other protective coating so
that you can use a cleaning solution. The oil slick that builds
up on cabinets - especially around the handles - is a
combination of kitchen grease, food smears, skin oil and hand
lotion transferred to the cabinet. All-purpose cleaners aren't
equal to the challenge.
If your cabinets are plastic laminate (formica or other
plastic), metal, painted metal or glass, you can wash them all
over with a strong alkaline cleaner, which is available at a
janitorial supply store. Or use a heavy-duty cleaner from the
supermarket. Mix according to directions and apply the solution
with a sponge. Let it sit a minute or two, then take a white,
nylon-backed sponge and scrub wherever necessary. Remove the
grimy suds from the sponge by squeezing it into the sink or a
slop bucket, never back into your cleaning solution. Then rinse
with a damp cloth and wipe dry with a terry cleaning cloth to
remove any last traces of scum and leave the cupboards clean and
glowing.
Never use acids or powdered cleansers on cabinets. A good
overall washing once a year should be enough. Keep a spray
bottle of all-purpose cleaner handy the rest of the time and
spot-clean after heavy kitchen use.
On wooden cabinets, take a gentler approach. To get off stubborn
dirt, wash around all handles and any other grease zones first
with hand dishwashing detergent. Then wash the entire cabinet,
including the handle areas, with an oil soap solution. Just wipe
lightly with the solution and buff dry immediately with a terry
cleaning cloth. Always wipe dry with any grain or pattern.
Seldom do you need to add any polish because the surface has its
own sheen when clean. If your cabinets are dull from wear or
age, spray furniture polish very lightly once a year or so to
fill in the pores and bring back some life.
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Spot removal from dishwasher
Brown, red or black deposits may be caused by iron or manganese
in the water. To remove, start the empty dishwasher on the rinse
and hold cycle; while the machine is filling, open the door and
add 1/2 cup rust remover from a janitorial supply store to the
water; then allow the cycle to finish.
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Fireplace hearth
Cleaning the face of a fireplace is a project that demands
patience. Fireplace stone and brick may be hard, but they're
also porous. This means it has plenty of tiny holes for soil to
accumulate in.
First, make sure the floor around the fireplace is well covered
with dropcloths. Mix a solution of high-alkaline cleaner and one
ounce of chlorine bleach per gallon of warm water. . Wet the
surface of the fireplace well with the solution, but don't use
so much that it runs. Dirty water running down the face may
cause hard-to-remove streaks. Then scrub the solution in with a
brush. You should see the suds getting dark and dirty as the
buildup comes off. Rinse well. If the surface is shadowy, a
light cleaning with a phosphoric acid cleaner may be enough to
brighten it the rest of the way. Don't use any acid stronger
than phosphoric as it will damage the brick or stone.
If the results still aren't satisfying, make a poultice of
heavy-duty cleaner, bleach and diatomaceous earth and apply it
to the areas needing attention. This should draw out any
remaining residue. If necessary, repeat these steps until you
get the result you want. The color of the brick or stone
determines how aggressive your use of bleach can be. Heavy
bleaching will whiten a dark surface and cause it to look out of
place. You can use a stronger solution on white or light
surfaces.
If you're not comfortable taking these kinds of chances with
your facing, you may want to call in a professional chimney
sweep.
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Dust
Eighty percent of the dirt in your house walks in through the
door on people's feet. The right kind of mats placed inside and
out of all entrances will help cut down on cleaning time. Choose
professional mats you see at the entrances of hospitals and
supermarkets, which are available at a janitorial supply store.
They're called walk-off mats because they give the dirt a chance
to be walked off before it gets in. Walk-off mats are usually
nylon or olefin with a rubber or vinyl back for inside the door,
and rubber or vinyl-backed synthetic turf for outside on the
step. They're available in a variety of colors. To do their job
well, both the inside and outside mats should be four strides
long. Vacuum mats regularly or shake them outside. Hose them
down and scrub with an all-purpose cleaner as needed. You can
also use upholstery shampoo or a wet/dry vacuum to clean them.
It's important to always hang them until completely dry so that
moisture isn't trapped under the vinyl backing.
If there are any unsealed concrete or mortar joints, they can
bleed off bits of sand and concrete dust onto surrounding
surfaces. You should also make sure your windows and doors seal
tightly. Some utility companies will inspect your home for free
to determine if you have any cracks where things could be going
out or coming in.
Keep vacuum bags, filters, seals and gaskets in good repair to
prevent fine dust from being blown back into the air as you
vacuum.
Feather dusters typically don't do much but spread dirt around.
If you are using a feather duster on some surfaces, consider
looking at alternative cleaning options.
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Windows
The best way to clean windows, or any large expanse of glass, is
with a squeegee. It does a faster and better job.
You need a professional-quality squeegee and a window wand. If
you'll be cleaning high windows, you also will need an extension
pole. The basic process is simple - apply the cleaning solution
with the window wand and pull the dirt and water off with the
squeegee.
In detail.
1. Mix a capful of ammonia or five drops of liquid dish
detergent in two gallons of water. Resist the urge to use too
much detergent; that causes streaking.
2. Dip your window scrubbing wand or a sponge 3/4 of an inch
into the solution, picking up just enough water to wet the
window without flooding it. Wet the entire window then go back
over it once to loosen any stubborn soil. Last, run the scrubber
against the frame on all sides of the window to pick up any dirt
you've pushed against the frame.
3. Dampen the squeegee blade before you start and wipe it with a
damp cloth between strokes. A dry blade will skip and jump on
the window instead of gliding smoothly.
4. Tilt the squeegee at an angle so that only about an inch of
the rubber blade presses lightly against the of the window
glass. Then pull the squeegee across the window horizontally.
This will leave a 1-inch dry strip across the of the window.
By squeegeeing across the first, you eliminate drips running
down.
5. Place the squeegee close to the frame in the dry area near
the and pull down to about three inches from the bottom of
the glass. Continue this way across the window, overlapping into
the clean, dry area with each stroke, and wiping the blade with
a damp cloth after each stroke.
6. Finish with a horizontal stroke across the bottom and wipe
any water off the sill with a damp cloth.
On some windows, it's easier to cut the water off the frame side
as well as the , and then squeegee the entire pane using
horizontal strokes. Large (picture) windows should be wet and
squeegeed half at a time, the half first. Finally, if you're
cleaning both the inside and outside of the window, squeegee
horizontally on one side and vertically on the other, so you can
tell whether any streaks are inside or out.
Large (picture) windows should be wet and squeegeed half at a
time, the half first.
Finally, if you're doing both the inside and outside the window,
you may want to squeegee horizontally on one side and vertically
on the other, so you can tell whether any streaks are inside or
out.
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Odor removal
For all odors, the first thing you should do is to remove the
cause of the odor.
To remove smoke film from washable surfaces, use a solution of
heavy-duty cleaner or degreaser. A dash of water-soluble
deodorizer from a janitorial supply store added to the solution
will help neutralize the odor. For smoky windows, add one part
isopropyl alcohol to five parts window cleaner to help cut the
oily film.
Smoke on porous surfaces is a tougher proposition. Light smoke
film on acoustic ceiling tile can be removed by professional
ceiling cleaners, but heavy buildup usually requires painting or
replacement of the tile. Upholstered furniture, draperies and
carpeting can be wet- or dry-cleaned, as appropriate, after a
thorough vacuuming, with water-soluble deodorizer added to the
cleaning solution to control residual smoke odor.
If you smoke in the home, change the filter in their air
circulation systems often.
Also, make sure you let the sun in to help dissipate smoke and
other odors as you try to eliminate the cause. Try to increase
air flow by opening windows, turning on fans or even putting
particularly smelly items outside for awhile. You can fill small
dishes with vanilla, vinegar or activated charcoal for an easy,
inexpensive smoke eater. Or, you can purchase odor neutralizer
from a janitorial supply house which will work more effectively.
Carpet and upholstery cleaning
Your best bet when it comes to these
types of cleaning issues is to call your local carpet and
steam cleaning professionals. Their services usually
run around $100 or so and they will give you the best
results
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